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1970s, 1980s: The Polish golden age of mountaineering that redefined Himalayan climbing in the 1970s and 1980s.
1970s, 1980s: The Polish golden age of mountaineering that redefined Himalayan climbing in the 1970s and 1980s.
Voytek Kurtyka is one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of mountaineering that redefined Himalayan climbing in the 1970s and 1980s.
His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the ‘night-naked’ speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style first ascent of the West Face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the ‘climb of the century’, his route on GIV with the Austrian Robert Schauer is – as of 2017 – unrepeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan giant Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre.
Just some of the mountains climbed:
Troll Wall
Kohe Bandaka
Changabang with Alex MacIntyre and John Porter
Broad Peak (Broad Peak is the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,051 metres above sea level) with Jurek Kukuczka
Gasherbrum IV, surveyed as K3, is the 17th highest mountain on Earth and the 6th highest in Pakistan. It is one of the peaks in the Gasherbrum massif
Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at 8,188 metres above sea level. Cho Oyu means “Turquoise Goddess” in Tibetan
Shishapangma, also called Gosainthān, is the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8,027 metres above sea level
Destination: Poland, worldwide Author/Guide: Bernadette McDonald Departure Time: 1970s, 1980s
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